Review: A culinary journey through the Land of Oz at Six by Nico Oxford

Course 1: Nugget of the Yellow Brick (Sweetcorn Beignet, Yellow Courgette, Saffron & Güero Chilli)
Course 2: Scarecrow (Hay Smoked Middle White Pork, Fennel, Apple & Pickled Mustard)
Course 3: Tin Woodman & Cowardly Lion (Goats Curd ‘Heart”, Sweet & Sour Umeboshi Plum, Liquid Courage)
Course 4: Deadly Poppy Field (Baby Aubergine, Coal Emulsion, Red Pepper Ketchup, Kohlrabi & Tarragon)
Course 5: Witch of the West (Chicken Breast, Pressed Leg & Black Onion Sweet Roasted Garlic & Parsley Risotto)
Course 6: Emerald City (Apple Cremeux, Honey Mousseline, Yoghurt Sorbet & Lemon Gel)

Young Dorothy Gale is embarking on a journey from Kansas, over the rainbow, to the magical Land of Oz, where she’ll meet the Scarecrow, Tin Man, and Cowardly Lion. Together, they set off toward the Emerald City to seek help from the Wizard, facing challenges from the Wicked Witch and ultimately discovering the power of friendship and self-belief.

But this wasn’t MGM’s iconic 1939 film adaptation of L. Frank Baum’s beloved tale or the stage version with songs by Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice (that played in New Theatre Oxford earlier in the year). This was a culinary journey at Six by Nico Oxford, where the magic of the Yellow Brick Road and the Emerald City were brought to life most extraordinarily and unexpectedly – through food.

The experience at Six by Nico sought to transcend the traditional concept of dining with an immersive odyssey through The Land of Oz in six courses – each dish representing a chapter of the beloved tale, a creative fusion of flavours designed to evoke the essence of the iconic characters and moments in the fantastical world.

Each dish was thoughtfully paired with a carefully selected wine to complement its unique flavours. And while I didn’t indulge in any myself, I observed and noted how these pairings enhanced the culinary journey for other diners in my party.

Course 1: Nugget of the Yellow Brick (Sweetcorn Beignet, Yellow Courgette, Saffron & Güero Chilli)
Course 1: Nugget of the Yellow Brick (Sweetcorn Beignet, Yellow Courgette, Saffron & Güero Chilli)

The journey begins with Nugget of the Yellow Brick, a sweetcorn beignet served with yellow courgette, saffron, and a whisper of Güero chilli, to create a dish that was as visually arresting as was delectable. The sweetcorn beignet was impeccably crisp on the exterior, with a luxuriously creamy interior, while the subtle heat from the chilli and the fragrant saffron introduced an intriguing warmth. The yellow courgette contributed a refreshing contrast, resulting in a dish that was as balanced as it was delightful, setting the stage for the courses to follow.

Course 2: Scarecrow (Hay Smoked Middle White Pork, Fennel, Apple & Pickled Mustard)
Course 2: Scarecrow (Hay Smoked Middle White Pork, Fennel, Apple & Pickled Mustard)

The second course, Scarecrow, presented hay-smoked Middle White Pork, fennel, apple, and pickled mustard. Though the dish boasted excellent components, including hay smoke for added theatre, I found myself yearning for a sharper juxtaposition of flavours. The pork was rich and smoky, yet the fennel, apple, and mustard, while pleasant, didn’t quite deliver the piquancy I expected. The result was a somewhat muted dish, though still enjoyable. The dish was paired with a Portal da Estrela Branco from Dão wine from Portugal, which I was told by fellow dinners harmonised well with the richness of the pork.

Course 3: Tin Woodman & Cowardly Lion (Goats Curd ‘Heart”, Sweet & Sour Umeboshi Plum, Liquid Courage)
Course 3: Tin Woodman & Cowardly Lion (Goats Curd ‘Heart”, Sweet & Sour Umeboshi Plum, Liquid Courage)

The third course, Tin Woodman & Cowardly Lion, featured a goat’s curd “heart” with sweet and sour umeboshi plum and an intriguing “Liquid Courage” broth. This dish was a delightful revelation, with the plum’s tartness perfectly offsetting the goat’s curd’s smooth richness. While the classic menu’s meaty broth felt slightly off, the vegetarian option offered a richer, more layered flavour that rounded out the dish in a wholly satisfying way. Paired with Aglianico IGT Beneventano from Campania, Italy, the wine’s rich, earthy notes brought further complexity to this course.

Course 4: Deadly Poppy Field (Baby Aubergine, Coal Emulsion, Red Pepper Ketchup, Kohlrabi & Tarragon)
Course 4: Deadly Poppy Field (Baby Aubergine, Coal Emulsion, Red Pepper Ketchup, Kohlrabi & Tarragon)

Next came Deadly Poppy Field, for which I chose the vegetarian option: a vibrant dish of baby aubergine, coal emulsion, red pepper ketchup, and kohlrabi with tarragon. This dish was a masterclass in contrasting textures and flavours. The smoky coal emulsion was dark and bold, while the red pepper ketchup imparted a touch of sweetness and acidity. The kohlrabi and tarragon provided a fresh lift, balancing the richness of the other elements. Paired with a Haus Und Hoff Weissburgunder from Neusiedlersee, Austria, the wine’s crispness and bright acidity offered an ideal counterpoint to the dish’s smoky complexity.

Course 5: Witch of the West (Chicken Breast, Pressed Leg & Black Onion Sweet Roasted Garlic & Parsley Risotto)
Course 5: Witch of the West (Chicken Breast, Pressed Leg & Black Onion Sweet Roasted Garlic & Parsley Risotto)

The fifth course, Witch of the West, featured a sumptuous combination of chicken breast, pressed leg, black onion, roasted garlic, and parsley risotto. This dish was an indulgent comfort, with the rich flavours of the chicken and the velvety risotto coming together in harmonious unity. The Borgo Tana Rosso from Lazio, Italy, paired elegantly with the dish, its fruity nuances enhancing the savoury depth of the chicken and the creamy risotto, creating a satisfyingly luxurious experience.

Course 6: Emerald City (Apple Cremeux, Honey Mousseline, Yoghurt Sorbet & Lemon Gel)
Course 6: Emerald City (Apple Cremeux, Honey Mousseline, Yoghurt Sorbet & Lemon Gel)

The final course, Emerald City, was a refreshing and ethereal end to the meal. It featured apple cremeux, honey mousseline, yoghurt sorbet, and lemon gel—an exquisite medley of sweet, tangy, and creamy elements. The apple cremeux and honey mousseline offered an indulgent richness, while the cool yoghurt sorbet and zesty lemon gel provided a crisp, invigorating contrast. Paired with the sparkling Dolce Essenza Frizzante from Piemonte, Italy, the effervescent wine added a delightful fizz that lifted the entire dish, making for a perfectly refreshing finale.

Behind The Six by Nico Land of Oz Experience

Six by Nico is celebrated for its avant-garde dining experiences, and this Wizard of Oz-themed menu perfectly illustrates its culinary artistry. With 16 locations, Six by Nico ensures consistency and high-quality dining across all its establishments. To maintain standards, the head chefs are brought to Glasgow, where they receive comprehensive spec packs and ingredient lists, as well as detailed training on preparation and presentation. This rigorous process ensures that each restaurant delivers the same exceptional experience, no matter where it is located.

The role of the staff at Six by Nico is equally crucial in delivering the immersive experience. Each team member is tasked with memorising the backstory behind every dish and its accompanying wine pairing. This knowledge allows them to engage diners with a deeper understanding of the meal, enriching the experience with the narrative behind each bite. Their enthusiasm and expertise help to transform an already remarkable meal into a truly captivating journey, ensuring that diners feel as though they are part of the story unfolding on the plate.

Snack
Snack

Another notable feature of Six by Nico is its flexibility. Guests can choose between the classic menu or a vegetarian alternative, with the option to interchange dishes between either. This flexibility ensures that all diners, regardless of dietary preference, can enjoy the same extraordinary experience without sacrificing the integrity of the menu. The ability to tailor the meal in this way allowed me to fully explore the creativity behind both versions, making it an even more personalised and enjoyable experience.

Six by Nico’s Land of Oz experience was, indeed, a fine fusion of culinary innovation, storytelling, and meticulous craftsmanship. From the imaginative courses to the exceptional service, the restaurant offered an experience that transcends dining – it’s an exploration of flavours, stories, and memories. Whether you’re a lifelong fan of The Wizard of Oz or simply seeking a unique and memorable meal, Six by Nico in Oxford delivers a dining experience that is both enchanting and extraordinary.

The post Review: A culinary journey through the Land of Oz at Six by Nico Oxford appeared first on The Oxford Magazine.



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